Almost4x4

Desert Fox;17197 wrote: I need to learn the following. Driving technique while in L4, with Diff lock and Atrac on, what speed? when to turn off? How bad is ABS while driving in the sand and what is CV? Would highly appreciate if someone is willing to educate me in on this.

I'm in with you on this one. If we could have a separate technical "FJ stuff" masterclass it would be fantastic.
We could even invite Caprihorse ;-)

Desert Lizard;17193 wrote:The confession of the century!!

Cheeky sod! What do you mean?!??!

TRAction Control system (pg 123). This is refering to TRAC. automatically helps prevent spinning of the rear wheels (2wd models) or 4 wheels (by adding brakes) when the vehicle is started or accelerated on slippery road surfaces.
Doesn't require push button activation. Works on it's own and is activated when the ignition is turned on. all FJ's have this whether 2 or 4wd model. On automatics, I am assuming this works in 2H or 4H, doesn't matter. If the system detects wheel spin, it adds brakes to increase traction.

A-TRAC is Active Traction Control system (pg 125) automatically helps prevent the spinning of 4 wheels when the vehicle is started or accelerated on slippery road surfaces. (basically same as TRAC, but only works in 4 Lo). To activated, hit the ATRAC switch, shift into Nuetral, and shift the 4x4 lever (short knob) into 4 LO. When in 4Lo, it detects wheel slippage and adds brakes accordingly to give added traction. Again, you must be in 4Lo and hit the "ATRAC" switch.

VSC (vehicle stability control) system on pg 130: integrates the control of the systems such as ABS, TRACtion control, engine control, etc to prevent the vehicle from skidding when cornering on a slippery road surface or operating steering wheel abruptly.
VSC is activated when the FJ reachs 9mph or 15km/h.
*VSC automatically turns off (VSC off light on dash comes on) when 4H/HL or 4Lo/LL is activated (AT/MT) or when the Rear Diff is locked.

-Both 2wd and 4wd models have VSC and TRAC. activated when FJ is started(TRAC) or when FJ reaches 9mph (VSC) and works when it's needed. No action required on your part.
-2WD models: when in snow, ice, or water, oil or anything slippery and you need a little extra traction control. Hit the Auto LSD to get added traction in the rear wheels.
-4WD models: TRAC works in 2H or 4H. when running 4 LO in slippery conditions such as snow, ice, water, oil, mud, slicks, etc. Hit ATRAC switch for added traction.

Rear Differential Lock System: for use only when wheel spinning (as oppose to wheel slipping) occurs in a ditch or on a slippery or ragged surface. Rear diff lock is effective when one of the rear wheels is spinning.

Note: use ATRAC when there is wheel slippage or partial traction.
Use RR Diff locker when there is wheel spinning or NO traction.
-Must be in LL (MT) or 4Lo (Automatics). It is also suggested that you try the LL or 4Lo 1st, it this is not enough, then activate the Rear Diff locker.
-Also mentions that a large steering effort and careful cornering is required. Means that you'll have a hard time steering, will seem very stiff.
Note: when using the rear locker the following systems do not work and their lights will come on (ABS warning light, VSC off light, and the slip indicator [ the car icon with double SS under the tires] light will ALL come on).

Source: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/t ... -lock.html and Darshan

There went my masterclass!
Thank you Caprihorse for saving me to pay anyone coffee...

Melfi;17208 wrote:There went my masterclass!
Thank you Caprihorse for saving me to pay anyone coffee...

I think you still have to buy Capri a coffee for the valuable info provided :015:

alshamsi_m;17200 wrote:Dear Big Red

While I was going through Arabic forum about Toyota I found one guy mentioning that you can open the fuse but opening the clip near by the small oil container effects the gear... the link to remove the FUSE... Sorry Darshan although you are not convinced but let me give you the explanation from the FJ clubs:

1. When you open the clip on the top you don't stop the ABS only you stop other Electronics from the computer board.
2.They still mentioned that the gear oil pump will stop after removing the clip on top " Will Get more details "
3. They Mentioned that many people who removed the clip end up with problems with 4 wheel deferential, specially the front one

Now to remove the ABS it is better to go to a electricians who must cut the wire for ABS only and not to switch off anything else !! the question is does it worth it ???

I'm going to update you once I get more details

Regards

Fully agreed with point one. As discussed, i disagree with point 2 and 3. While i cannot claim to know a lot, i do know to an extend where i can tear down and rebuild transmissions (which i have done in the past) transfercases and diffs (which are easy to understand when compared to AT transmissions.)

The first point says that it disables a lot of electronics - Agreed, I do not fully understand what other electronics it disables besides the nannies -Agreed.

But AT transmissions work mainly on fluid pressure and it is extremely sensitive to fluid pressure and the type of oil used in it (Viscosity and charecterstics of which enables the right pressure/temperature) If the pump stops working, because of varying reasons (Clogging/burnt oil and crude from the bands and clutches being the main reason) the AT stops working immediately. When it is partially clogged the AT may still continue to work but you will have different issues based on how much clog there is. There are many other reasons why an AT can fail (wear and tear, sensors going faulty etc) But that is besides the point.

The point i am driving is that if the oil pump stops working because it is asked to switch off by the ECU( By signalling the solenoids within the transmission to do so-It is not exactly like an electric pump which pumps water),Then the trans stops working immediately. Because there is no fluid pressure, torque converter cannot lock up, no gears can be changed etc.

From my understanding, ABS/Nannies SHOULD BE disabled when in the desert. The reason why i think so is because brakes is one component in a vehicle which overheats pretty quickly and causes brake fade (safety concern) and other issues, but the driver does not realize it soon enough. Manufacturers try to reduce this issue by introducing ventilated rotors and such to mitigate this issue. The brakes heat up pretty fast when ABS engages and more so if it were to engage everytime you brake. If you have VSC/ASC etc on, then this agravtes the issue. Besides causing premature failure to the calipers, seals etc. this is a safety concern if you land up in a severe brake fade situation.

Again as i said, you live another day, you learn another thing. So i will be happy to be proved wrong.

desert_hawk;17202 wrote:Dear Bu Saliem and all,
the method I mentioned has nothing to do with the fuse or the connector, it goes by hacking into one of the wires near the driver side fuse compartment inside the cabin.
while doing this in my FJ 2008 model from 2009 till now, I never had any problem in regards to transmission oil over heating or any other things, it basically disables all the electronics, once I want them back, I just click the button on again without the need to switch the car off and on again.

the FJ is a great machine as you said, but you don't want the electronics to kick in in an unwanted time, only when needed ;)

regards

Spot on, especially the ones underlined above. That is exactly how the ABS should be disabled. (Apparently, It doesnt work the same way on 2010 and above machines-No first hand experience trying it though)

Desert Fox;17197 wrote:Hi Big Red, first of all a BIG thank you for starting this thread. It keeps us newbs and new owner of the fabled FJ glued to the thread. I for one have done two trips in the desert behind a marshal who loves his FJ. Both trips I got stuck and conducted self recoveries much to my own surprise and also glee. Once I had to be told I was not stuck by the Marshal and he said "When you are in the FJ, you are only stuck when you have tried everything which your car has to offer."

I need to learn the following. Driving technique while in L4, with Diff lock and Atrac on, what speed? when to turn off? How bad is ABS while driving in the sand and what is CV? Would highly appreciate if someone is willing to educate me in on this.

Driving technique in 4 LO is always at LOW speeds, this is dictated by the extreme gear reduction that 4 Lo gives you and like I said its only used to get out of stucks, go down steep and long slipfaces or pulling heavy objects at slow speed.

in 4 LO you need to start off in third gear and move up or down as required. The maz speed I would ever drive in 4 Lo is 30 to 40 KMPH. Well if you can drive faster than this you really dont need to be in 4 Lo.

Now if the dunes are steep and teh sands really soft I usually leave the A TRAC on in 4 Lo and drive at the above mentioned speeds. Diff lock also can be kept on or off depending on your comfort with it.

The minute you get out of the sticky situation or if the terrain permits higher speeds you change to 4 HI and drive on starting in first geat and moving on. Remember to switch off teh A TRAC and Diff lock or the light will be flasing and it could damage the actuators.

ABS is manageable on sand if you dont hit the brake suddenly, use the brake gently, in the sands its all about using the accelerator to keep teh car moving and the traction of teh sand to make it stop you hardly ever need to brake seriously if you anticipate your stops. And severe braking will dig you in and will be hard to drive out as would hard acceleration when you start from a stop....just gently give it gas and you start moving.

The CV or constant velocity joints are the ones that transmit power from the front differential to teh front wheels. As they are articulated to let you use the steering you need to be abit carefull while using the A TRAC if you are lifted or have neavy tires and their angles will have changed due to the lift and extreme lock to lock movements with a heavy foot on the gas will spell disaster in no time

Wasif Ahmed;17219 wrote:
in 4 LO you need to start off in third gear and move up or down as required. The maz speed I would ever drive in 4 Lo is 30 to 40 KMPH. Well if you can drive faster than this you really dont need to be in 4 Lo.

Appreciate if you could explain more in detail the specific reason for this suggestion starting in third gear in 4LO ? Would this starting in third gear in 4LO also apply when going down steep and long slipfaces ?

Wasif Ahmed;17219 wrote:
The minute you get out of the sticky situation or if the terrain permits higher speeds you change to 4 HI and drive on starting in first geat and moving on. Remember to switch off teh A TRAC and Diff lock or the light will be flasing and it could damage the actuators.

Does the ATRAC have to be manually switched off each time ? As I would imagine that when one were to move to 4HI the ATRAC would automatically switch off as by its very nature it is supposed to be operational only in 4LO.

Zarir.

In 4 Lo the gearing is so low that on flat surfaces if you start out in first gear the car will dig into the sand so on flat surfaces its a good idea to strat out in third. Now coming down a slip face its more adviceable to start out in first than try second.

What gear you prefer is a matter of personal choice and the terrain you are in so try all the options and decide for yourself what works best for you.

With regards to A TRAC yes once you move to 4 HI it will de activate but you will notice that the switch will remain in the depressed position so its a good idea to manually switch it off thats all.

The Diff Lock will also cut once you move to 4 Hi but you will notice the diff lock light flashing which will damage teh actuator switch if left in the on position so just to play it safe I recommend manually switching off A TRAC and Diff Lock once you dont need them or are moving from 4 Lo to 4 Hi