Something broke off :(

[caprihorse]

Need Advice!
My 2006 Wrangler recently got Error Code P0344 "Camshaft position sensor intermittent". Its running normal below 2500 RPM, starts shaking on above 2500 RPM.

Kindly share possible solution if anyone had this problem in the past.

Change the sensor immediately, it's mounted at the front of gearbox. This sensor is important for the whole engine and counting the teeth at rotation. Your car may stop in the middle of the highway, which would not be very pleasant.

And don't ask Abu Jimmy, Strawb and me, how do we know this fact.

[yasir]

Change the sensor immediately, it's mounted at the front of gearbox. This sensor is important for the whole engine and counting the teeth at rotation. Your car may stop in the middle of the highway, which would not be very pleasant.

And don't ask Abu Jimmy, Strawb and me, how do we know this fact.

Thanks Capri, will change before next drive as this is not my daily use car.

[Maddie]

Guys... Urgent help needed. I am in Saudi Arabia, Makkah now.
On my way here, the Eastern part of the kingdom was extremely hot and the temperature went past the halfway mark. When i opened the hood, the flowover bottle was full and overflowing but after cooling it down by xonstantly spraying the radiator with cool water, the radiator sucked the coolant back in.
Kept the speed around 100 kms witht the ac on. No more heating.

When I checked in makkah the next day, the coolant level is about 250ml down.
Today it was around a 100 ml low.

Strawb, Abu Jimmy, Chief PLEEEEEEEASE help. Pwood, any idea? Is it the thermostat or the radiator cap?

Out of my mind here coz the drive back will be hotter.

Should I get the radiator cleaned?

The temp is around 100 too but it is realllllly hot here, I keep the aux Fan on below 45 kms.

[Abu Jimmy]

Guys... Urgent help needed. I am in Saudi Arabia, Makkah now.
On my way here, the Eastern part of the kingdom was extremely hot and the temperature went past the halfway mark. When i opened the hood, the flowover bottle was full and overflowing but after cooling it down by xonstantly spraying the radiator with cool water, the radiator sucked the coolant back in.
Kept the speed around 100 kms witht the ac on. No more heating.

When I checked in makkah the next day, the coolant level is about 250ml down.
Today it was around a 100 ml low.

Strawb, Abu Jimmy, Chief PLEEEEEEEASE help. Pwood, any idea? Is it the thermostat or the radiator cap?

Out of my mind here coz the drive back will be hotter.

Should I get the radiator cleaned?

The temp is around 100 too but it is realllllly hot here, I keep the aux Fan on below 45 kms.

Hi Maddie ,

I think there is nothing wrong with your cooling system , as you stated there is no obvious leak of water . just a little amount is missing after driving for a long distance .

1- you need to check carefully for any minor leaks of water . specially the water pump ( check for any water drops behind the engine fan directly ) . the thermostat compartment , the radiator and the upper and lower radiator hoses . in case of any leak , you should fix it immediately as it will get worse on the way back to UAE and you may not be able to complete the trip back.

2- In case of no leaks , the cooling system may had sucked air and that's why the level of water is changing ( air and boiling water in a closed compressed loop will result a similar case ." the flowover bottle was full and overflowing " .

3- in order to solve the sucked air problem ,you need to change the liquids of the cooling system . you have to do the following :- ALL THIS SHALL BE DONE WHEN THE CAR IS TOTALLY COLD AND ENGINE SWITCHED OFF .

A- Buy an original radiator cap ( 45 Dh ) and an original 50/50 engine coolant ( 60 Dh ) i think the prices in KSA are little bit cheaper .

B- Open radiator cap and open ( disassemble ) the lower radiator hose ( OUTFLOW from radiator , INFLOW to engine ) , wait for few minutes till the coolant is all out and then re fix the lower hose .

C- fill the car with plain coolant ( 1 jerrycan or 4 liters ) while its switched off and do it from the the radiator directly not from the reserve tank . after filling the coolant , use plain water to fill the radiator fully , keep it opened and then switch on the car ( the water circulation will be on the move ) keep on filling the radiator slowly untill its full , close radiator cap ( the new one ) and then fill the reserve tank half way only .

I hope it is nothing serious and you will reach back home safely .

Good Luck .

[Abu Jimmy]

Hi Maddie ,

In case of leak , check this thread http://www.almost4x4.com/vb/showthread. ... iator-leak

[caprihorse]

Maddie, what I think, as you are mentioning that the bottle was full, it's classical case, that your cooling system has high pressure. It means that there is some limit in the coolant flow. The radiator cap seems to be OK as the pressure pushed the coolant to the bottle. Normally when you are driving city or certain speed on the highway, you'll notice nothing. If on the higher speed on the highway the temperature gauge will increase little bit above and stays, it's indication that the radiator does not allow enough flow. In that case chemical cleaning may help, where you would need to remove thermostat and after cleaning return it back. If still symptoms are as previous, you would need to change the radiator

[Code Red]

Don't use normal water to refil the radiator, as it will contain minerals that will leave deposits in the cooling system and reduce its efficiency. (See Capri Horse's comment on chemical cleaning). Also consider reducing the proportion of coolant in the mix. "Coolant" actually reduced the cooling efficiency of the fluid as compared to pure water, but is recommended because it contains corrosion inhibitors and lowers the freezing point of the mixture for use in colder climates. The 50/50 mix is great in Alaska, but will not help you much in this climate.

All that being said, some transfer back and forth between the radiator and overflow is normal, but if you are having problems at 100 deg. F. then there is something wrong with the system. You don't mention any leaks so on a manual transmission it must be either (1) airflow to the radiator (obstructions such as lights, winches, etc. can be a factor), (2) air in the cooling system, (3) corrosion, or (4) waterflow (pump or obstruction). If it is an automatic transmission, then the tranmission cooler is integrated into the radiator and could also be contributing too much heat. That will usually indicate a transmission problem unrelated to cooling, because transmission cooling system problems usually retain the heat in the tranny and actually lessen the heat load on the radiator itself.

As to the weld, an after-the-fact weld on that bracket may very well be weaker than the original part even if done correctly, and it would be hard to do correctly given the size of the bracket. The heat from the welder will change the temper of the steel, and on a short, thin, section of the bracket, it will be hard to move the heat away fast enough to avoid changing the temper over a broad area. The factory weld (I think) is at the axle tube, and it's easier to cool the two larger pieces of steel while the weld is performed. Smaller components of the bracket itself can be hardened after welding to control the temper. A proper repair on that bracket will be more involved than just running a bead with a MIG gun. It will need someone with real skills, and possibly require a fishmouth and reinforcing plates, both of which will be visible and possibly objectionable to RTA. A whole new bracket may be the right solution, but will still require a skilled welder, not the kind that usually works in auto shops.

[Maddie]

Thanks everyone!

Chief, The radiator was pretty dirty when I drained the coolant in dubai and refilled it completely with 50/50 Prestone coolant.
I will take it to the Radiator Shop tomorrow and get it throughly flushed and cleaned, will an original Toyota LC cap fit on the TJ Radfiator, no jeep dealer in makkah :(

Abu jimmy, should I look for the water pump leak when the Rig is cold or when running;

Code Red, it was a complete 50/50 mix I filled.

Should I do it 50/50 one gallon and rest distilled water or normal water;

[Code Red]

Avoid normal water. That is usually a major source for the crud that gets in the radiator. I can't remember what the capacity is for a TJ 4.0, but I would feel comfortable in this climate going to 25/50 instead of 50/50. There's not much danger of the coolant freezing on you. I have gone down to 1 gallon of coolant for 6 gallons of distilled water in a climate where it would routinely get down to 25 degrees F. But I knew I would be changing it soon. (we called it antifreeze, but it's the same stuff: ethelene glycol or equivalent "green" product plus corrosion inhibitors). Just don't drive somewhere that it could freeze without changing the mix. I ran pure distilled water one summer in an old Jeep CJ with a factory V8 and factory cooling, and it brought the temps down by about 8 degrees. But it was just something to get me by until I could address the real problems. (winch blocking airflow to radiator).

Remember though, that changing the ratio is just a stopgap measure, and the benefit might not be significant. The system should work with a 50/50 mix, so if it is still overheating after the flush and clean, then there is another fundamental problem.

[caprihorse]

Avoid also so called drinking water, like Masa*fi, Al*in or similar. They also contain mineral salts, which are good for human body, but not good for metals, as they build corrosion and residuals. The best is to take original coolant, made in wherever, 1 gallon for 50 Dhs, whatever mixture ratio it is...
To drain the system is not enough, you need to get pressure by flow, by a machine, which is connected to your cooling system from outside, otherwise, the residuals will still remain in the system. Chemicals added to cleaning water, will also unblock stucked pipes, unless they are so closed, that the radiator needs to be replaced.